The Mecca to "Monkey Jesus," the restored painting of Christ in Borja, Spain
10/9/2024
Sometimes, the journey is just as important as finding the famous painting itself.
To find "Monkey Jesus," and learn to appreciate how the restoration artist Cecilia Giménez inadvertently put Borja, Spain on the map with donations to both restore the Church and donate to hospitals with her efforts to save a deteriorating painting, you have to commit.
When I say commit, you have to truly commit to the cause, because if you're not a native resident of Spain with a car, you're going to have to do the following:
- Buy an international flight to Spain 6+ hours if you're in the states
- Uber/Taxi to Atocha Train Station: 40 mins from the airport, or 1 hour by train
- Book the Renfe High Speed train in advance: approx $40 - $150 depending on time and availability
- Ride the Train for an Hour, to Zaragoza, the ciudad halfway point between Madrid and Barcelona
- Book and Ride a local bus at the local ticketing office, and ride for another hour to Borja, Spain
- Ask a kind bar owner/call the only local taxi in town to pick you up from the bus station, and drive you to the Santurario de Meri Church, another 15mins, 6km from the bus station.
- If you're driving from Madrid, expect a 3.5 hour round trip.
- This mecca is not for the weary, but it is possible.
- It's easier to see the Mona Lisa!
But it is possible, and the residents of Borja could not have been more accommodating, patient, and downright gracious about the entire excursion. And it culminates into the theme that Cecilia was simply trying to do her part to bring good to the church and her community.
What started out as a viral meme, really warmed my heart. The Church only charges 3.5 euros to see the painting, and donates all proceeds to the local hospital, feeding the homeless and church related fundraisers.
The Sanctuary rests atop a hill with a great view, 6km from the city.
The Pre-Exhibit
Across the world, artists have donated their interpretations of Monkey Jesus, called "Ecce Homo" by the Sanctuary. Each piece of artworks is inspired by Cecilia's restoration, a unified community of artists sends this small church their pieces for display.
The Masterpiece
I don't know what this all means. When asked to place a pin where me and my wife are from, I asked where most visitors are from, which are, the US, Japan, all Europe, ERASMUS students, Ukraine tour groups. Something about this specific pictures lights us up. It's tongue in cheek, and yet so noble how the church has used this as a gathering opportunity for good. We would never make this mecca without the international fame. It's more than a blotched paint job, it's the intention and noble thoughts that count!
Guarded by glass, your reflection appears, you are the restoration now!
David, our cab driver, showed extra hospitality, patience, and humility in simply both being our local chauffer (who didn't have to stay at all), but he ended up staying the entire tour with us to give us a ride back to the bus station! And when we got back down with more than an hour left, instructed us to shop for some great local wines de Borja, which we did!
Become the restoration!
The last exhibit invites you to view the story of the international fame, with festivals and constumes and curiosity from across the world back in 2012 to now. The church even hosts a 6KM race from the base of Borja to the top of hill the church resides on. My wife, tired from the hours of travel, felt the jolt of inspiration as well after the fund exhibit. They embraced what they had, and leaned into the fun to make something so special.
The view from the top of the hill, after a long 3 hour triumphant journey, from Seattle, to Madrid, to Zaragoza, to Borja, to the Sanctuary. A plane, then high-speed train, to shuttle bus, to local taxi.
Bonus: See Zaragoza!
The cathedral Pilar in the city was one of the most beatiful places to both pray and see! Look for the bombs that were dropped on the church, that miraculously, never exploded! A true miracle.
Zaragoza - a beautiful city square with wait... a Costco, and Popeyes that serves beer?
Closing Thoughts:
Today, I barely slept, having to sleep at 3am for work and wake 5am to catch the train. All to travel 3 hours away to the Sanctuary of Mercy, to see "Monkey Christ." And it taught me a lot, showed me another side of Spain where the residents are nothing but gracious and helpful. The cathedral Pilar and the plaza was spectacular, like any Duomo in italy or the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, and still very local. The speed trains whipped by fast, the bus driver so friendly to my sleepy self pointing me where to get off. The cab drivers so enthusiastic to tell us that Borja is known for grapes, wines, and olives and that wine tastings come and go similar to those Chateaus in SF.
This place, however growing, got my curiosity via meme, but my endearing love of the city by the end.
We passed the arch/corridor where Cecilia, the restoration artist, used to live, (now that she's 90). Somebody in this small town, with a pure heart, brought the world together.
Come visit. It'll be a difficult journey, but so rewarding once you find yourself when looking for Jesus.
PS We made their official Instagram account!
